Riding a motorcycle through (some of) Costa Rica
Part 1/3 : Is it for you?
Hello, dear reader.
If you’ve found this article theres a good chance you’d like to experience Costa Rica, and you’re wondering if riding a motorcycle to do so is right for you.
I am here to tell you, the answer is a resounding yes (as long as you meet a few criteria.)
My wife (the crazy hot one pictured above) and I travelled through some of Costa Rica in August on a Suzuki DR650 we rented from Thorsten at Off-Road Costa Rica. We were on the bike for 10 days with the whole trip bookended by days in San Jose.
There are many blogs, books, and videos about visiting Costa Rica — so I’ll really be focusing on the things I wish I could find when I’m researching trips. Namely, the real budget someone travelled on, and specific details about riding a motorcycle in the country.
So without further ado, put on your helmets and lets dig in.
Criteria 1: You have a motorcycle license
Sorry to say that Costa Rica is not a country where driving without a license is really common (or allowed). In order to get a bike for a reputable rental company, you’ll need to show that you have a valid motorcycle endorsement in your home country.
I did a bit of research on buying and reselling your own bike in Costa Rica (a la Vietnam) but there doesn’t seem to be a market around this, and bikes aren’t particularly cheap.
Criteria 2: You can afford it
Excluding flights we spent:
$3650
I’m excluding flights here because I have no idea how much yours will cost.
If your reaction is, damn Matt, this is way out of my budget — let me be very upfront that I am not a thrifty traveller. And while we didn’t stay in any resorts, we did have some big ticket items that would be easy to avoid (a $400 scuba diving trip to Isla de Caño for example) as well as splurging on not one, but two dinners at Mosaic in Uvita.
We could have saved another $200 by renting a 250cc Honda rather than the DR, I think 2 people could have been okay on the 250 if you are a lightweight pair.
Without missing out, you could pretty easily shave a $1000 off this trip by enjoying some simple dinners and opting for a day on the beach, or hiking on your own in place of guided tours.
If you’re up for a more backpacker+motorcycle experience the whole 2 person trip (sans flights) could probably be done for $1800. One person maybe $1300.
Criteria 3: You have the gumption
I am not the most travelled person in the world, but I really believe that if you have your wits, your manners, and a little bit of cash — you’ll be okay (just about) anywhere on the planet.
If you’ve got a good sense of humor and are willing to give the language, at least a bit of, a try — then you’re really golden.
That being said, riding a motorcycle anywhere requires an extra level of alertness and comfort with discomfort.
Costa Rica is a very easy place to be a tourist.
Its a huge part of their economy and lifestyle, english is spoken everywhere, and credit cards (even USD) are accepted at most businesses (though we found paying in local colones typically ended up with a slight discount).
Driving by motorbike felt very safe.
The roads in Costa Rica are about 50/50 cars and motorbike, meaning you won’t be an exception on the road. I would say (compared to US drivers) about 1 in 10 drivers are noticeably more aggressive than you’re used to, and about 1 in 100 drive like true assholes. The further away from San Jose you are, the better it gets.
If you meet the first 2 criteria, but you’re feeling a bit scared, trust an internet stranger and get on that bike.
Go, or no go
If you’re interested in traveling to Costa Rica, but don’t think a motorbike is for you. The main website I used when planning our trip was MyTanFeet. Its a great site and has a lot more detail on topics I won’t dive into here as well as some great recommendations on itineraries.
If you are interested in going by motorcycle, it will still be a great resource.
Part 2/3: A detailed look
Still with me here? Alright then, sounds like you meet the 3 requirements and you’ve got questions that are hard to google. So I’ll do my best here to lay out some of the basic on-the-ground stuff you’ll want to know — and mostly just convince you that you’ll figure it out when you get there.
We’ll also lay out our exact itinerary and daily budget.
The basics
Road and Driving conditions: As I said earlier, drivers are more aggressive than you’re probably used to but the road isn’t without its rules. You’ll find San Jose the most stressful, but drive defensively and do as the other motorbikes do and you’ll be fine. You’ll find that lane splitting and lane drifting are the norm for motorbikes. While the roads are more aggressive we didn’t experience any real road rage (from anybody else at least).
You may have read horror stories about the pot holes etc. in Costa Rica. While there certainly were some gnarly ones they were mainly confined to some mountain roads where you shouldn’t be up to much speed anyway. Even with a passenger and gear I never felt that there was anything to hard to maneuver. On highways where you can go faster, the roads are generally taken well care of.
All of that being said. Keep your eyes up, avoid tailgating, and keep both wheels on the ground. The sun goes down just after 6pm every day — and I do not recommend driving at night as there aren’t really any road lights and that is when you could get in trouble with some pot holes.
Speeds: The top speed limit on highways is 80km/hr (about 50mph). Everybody speeds a bit so really about 60mph is the fastest you’ll ever see anyone go. Most of the time on smaller highways you’ll be doing something closer to 60kmh (35mph). Which is to say that even if you are only an around town motorcycle rider in the states (I never get on the 80mph freeway) you’ll probably feel very comfortable on any road in Costa Rica. The fines for speeding are steep so I would recommend just embracing the pura vida and sticking to the limit even if others don’t.
Gas Stations: There are plenty in Costa Rica. You won’t need to do too much route planning as far as gas goes. Most bikes you’re likely to rent will probably take you around 150km on a full tank. As long as you start looking for a gas station around 100km, you’ll be fine. Of course we didn’t go everywhere so if you’re headed somewhere particularly remote (like the northeast or southwest of the country) take a look before heading out.
Also note, you can’t pump your own gas, an attendant will do it for you at every station.
Tolls: Many roads in Costa Rica are actually privately maintained, so you’ll need to pay tolls. They’re very small amounts (like $0.50) but do have some colones in small denominations available. The most important thing here is that you do not pull up to the pay station and then fish your wallet out. If you don’t have the coins in easy reach, pull into the dividers between and before the booths to get your money ready when you’re on a bike.
Helmets: The helmets in Costa Rica are like what I’ve encountered in Southeast Asia, and probably most of Latin America. Which is to say that they are better than nothing, but they certainly wouldn’t be getting a DOT sticker in the US or the EU equivalent. We considered bringing our helmets from home but ultimately chose not to.
Money: You may be surprised to find that credit cards are accepted just about everywhere in Costa Rica. You can also pay in USD for things but I wouldn’t generally recommend it (other than some big ticket items like the bike rental maybe).
Colones is the local currency and seemed get us the best price on things. I would not recommend bringing dollars to exchange at the airport (their rates are bad), but rather eat the ATM fee and find yourself a cajero automático to get your cash. You’ll quickly find an ATM in even the smallest town as physical currency is still very much the norm in Costa Rica.
Phone service: Is excellent everywhere in the country we went that is along a road. You can get a SIM card at the airport. The main options are Claro and Movistar.
However, the Movistar app is terrible and you will not be able to recharge your service using it. I believe Claro is the same. So, when you get your SIM card just make sure you get enough for your whole trip (its cheap). Or you’ll need to find one of their brick and mortar stores to get a refill card.
We opted to just go without after our card ran out 3 days into the trip. Most restaurants, cafe’s, and all hostels/hotels will have wifi so just get your route then. We found navigating in Costa Rica pretty straightforward.
Getting your motorcycle
Ah, I was wondering when you would ask..
As said earlier, we got our bike from Thorsten at Off Road Costa Rica. I really recommend Thorsten as he was honest and quick with pricing and communication. Not once did I feel pressured, haggled, or scammed. He was also very enthusiastic and helpful in helping us with route planning and loads of practical advice.
For two people, we were very happy in the Suzuki DR650. It had more than enough power for both of us. Its not exactly meant for passenger comfort but likely the longest driving day you’ll do is about 4–5 hours. According to Carly, its not a big deal (with a small break) for that amount of time.
We didn’t actually do anything I would call offroading — but we did spend some time on some less maintained dirt roads and the bike was a blast. At home I ride a Triumph T100 which weighs in at a whopping 550lbs, the DR is an easy 350lbs. If you’re more accustomed to a cruiser, I think you’ll love the maneuverability and lightweight playful nature of the DR.
I am 5'9 and I will say that the bike was about as tall as it could have been for me to ride it, having a passenger also helped get the suspension down for me. If you’re shorter, or about 5'9 but riding solo, you might want to consider an alternative. If you are used to a cruiser, you will have to get used to the high center of gravity of the bike. With most cruisers you sit more in the bike, with the DR you are sitting more on the bike.
Thorsten (and other bike shops) have other options of course. I really think a 250cc could have handled everything we did and would have only struggled on the steepest mountain roads. He also, I believe, has a 400cc Honda that I’m confident would have worked if you weigh a bit more or want to push a little harder.
Very good, off we go for 10 days of riding
More than a recommended itinerary, I hope this next piece serves to give you some real insight into what a daily budget looks like, and give you a few ideas on places you’d like to visit. Keep in mind that all of these prices are for two people.
Day 1 — Arrive San Jose
Without wanting to get this off to a bad start. I will say that we were not crazy about San Jose. However, we didn’t really try too hard here. I’m sure with a local guide and a bit of enthusiasm there’s a lot to be appreciated about the city.
We would recommend Casa Aldea to anyone, but particuarly if you opt to get a bike from Thorsten this lovely hostel is just around the corner. The staff is great (the older ladies loved my…Spanish), the owner Emir is a very charming Turk, and the breakfast tipico is delicious.
Day 2 — Get Bike and head to La Fortuna
Alright! Get ready for the most stressful part of your entire riding experience. You’ll have to get used to the bike and traffic quick! One of the nice things about our route out of San Jose was that the highway which runs right in front of Thorsten’s shop will take you straight towards La Fortuna. So you’ll have a chance to get more comfortable without really having to worry much about navigation.
Day 3 — La Fortuna
We went all out with both a Zip-line tour and visiting the La Fortuna waterfall. The falls would be our top recommendation here as they are both much cheaper and a really beautiful place to spend time in the water. There were plenty of other tourist as well, but swimming in the waters surrounded by jungle was extremely peaceful nonetheless.
Day 4 — La Fortuna to Monteverde
Extremely pleased with our stay in La Fortuna we headed out around Arenal Lake destined for Monte Verde. Arenal Lake was a fun and winding road to ride with sudden breaks in the jungle walls to reveal a huge lake, with the Arenal volcano rising dramatically into the clouds behind it.
There are some nice restaurants to stop at and I highly recommend taking a break at the north end of the lake for a nice batido (try guanabana).
One of our favorite bits of the trip actually happened as I tried to get adventurous with our route and we ended up very lost along the dirt roads between Monteverde and Lake Arenal. It was a truly beautiful ride and we saw nobody but cowboys up here.
Getting lost is one of the benefits of not having your SIM work properly. Thank you Movistar!
Day 5 — Monteverde
Santa Elana is actually the town that you’re likely to be staying (right next to Monteverde) so don’t let that confuse you. We opted for a self guided hike through the cloud forest and followed it up with a guided night hike at Valle Escondido, where we saw Cane Toads, snakes, Mot-mots, and more.
We actually stayed in a hostel, but after seeing Valle Escondido we really wish we’d stayed there.
Day 6 — Monteverde to Jaco
This day of riding was a mixed bag. The first half out of Monteverde is beautiful and pleasantly winding roads with the verdant vistas you’ll come to know and love.
The second half was spent mostly on Highway 1 (the busiest highway) which is two lanes and sees the most truck traffic. Grit your teeth and bear it if you head this way and you’ll only be in the worst of it for about an hour.
Frankly, Jaco is a part of our journey where I would have preferred to go elsewhere. If I were to do it over again, I’d probably go ahead and visit some beaches on the Guanacaste Peninsula. There is a ferry that will take you from Puntarenas (just north of Jaco).
Jaco is more of a nightlife party scene, if thats for you (which I’m not judging) then you’ll definitely like it here.
Day 7 — Jaco
That being said, we actually had a really nice time in Jaco. Besides the best Indian food either of us have ever had at India Love, I got a surf lesson and we spent the day at the beach. Get an airbnb or hostel on the edges of town if you can. The revelry at the center of town goes until 4am. We quite liked our Airbnb on Morales street in the south of town.
Day 8 — Jaco to Uvita
On your way out of Jaco we recommend taking the time to ride some of the dirt roads along the beach in Playa Hermosa. Just south of Jaco, Playa Hermosa is the surf capital of Costa Rica and where the international competitions are held. Get there before 10am to see some serious surfing.
As a side note. Unless you are an experienced surfer you should not surf here. There are serious waves and riptides that can get you in trouble quickly if you don’t know what you’re doing.
The ride down the coast is pleasant and straightforward along beaches, palm orchards, and Tico towns. We stopped only briefly by the Manuel Antonio National Park (the most visited in the country) but were not early enough to actually explore. We did meet a nice German couple (hallo Ludwig und Anna!) and they did a self guided tour and had videos of sloths, monkeys, and more. So definitely worth a visit.
Arriving in Uvita we were very happy to stay in the Cascada Verde Hostel. It’s enveloped in the in jungle and the upstairs balcony was an incredible place to sip G&T’s and reminisce about a days adventure.
Day 9 — Uvita
Uvita is an incredible place where the mountains descend straight into the sea. You’ll be surrounded by the Marino Ballena National Park as well as some private nature reserves.
We actually went on a whale watching tour with Costa Rica Dive and Surf and saw mother Humpbacks nursing their newborn calves. Pro-tip though — we went diving the next day out to Caño Island and actually saw even more whales on this trip. If you’re not dive certified, they also offer snorkeling in the same area.
Don’t miss Uvita Waterfall here either (sometimes called Cascada Verde). Privately owned, the family only charges about $1.50 for entry to the hiking trails that lead to pools and the falls. The best part is that this waterfall is a natural slide that drops you about 8 feet into the pool below.
Day 10 — Uvita Diving
As mentioned, one of our trips highlights was a 2 tank dive at Caño Island. Besides seeing some Humpbacks putting on a show — underwater we got to see huge sea turtles, eels, sharks, stingrays, and more. We’re not very experienced divers but the crew at Costa Rica Dive & Surf made us feel comfortable and competent. Plus the banana bread and burrito lunches were (chef’s kiss).
Day 11 — Uvita to San Jose- Return bike
With our time coming to an end we headed out for one last amazing leg of the journey. Uvita to San Jose via Highway 2 is a world class ride. Highway 2 has recently had serious work done making for a smooth no-hassle ride. You’ll be linking together esses and ascending into the clouds where this route tops out at 11,000ft.(about 3300 meters).
If you do opt for this ride just be aware that it gets cold up in the clouds. We did alright with a long sleeve + rain jacket, but you’ll be looking forward to a warm coffee on the other side.
Day 12 — Fly out San Jose
And that was that. With a fond farewell we hit the airport, grabbed some souvenirs for friends (rum and hot sauce 👌), and headed back home.
Part 3/3: Our picks and tips
My my, dear reader, what a journey we have come on together. If you’ve made it here I can only assume that you’re halfway packed and you’re absolutely dizzy with butterflies while monitoring your google flight price alerts.
While you wait for a screamin’ deal — feast your eyes on some of our favorite places and recommendations for a bike trip
Our top picks
Favorite Place:
Both of us - Uvita
Uvita had the charm of a real Tico village, the beautiful Cascada Verde hostel, some of our favorite food at Mosaic. Costa Rica Dive & Surf showed us an incredible time diving at Caño Island.
Here the mountains pitch directly into the ocean for some truly stunning scenery.
Favorite Food:
Matt — Mosaic (Uvita): Mosaic is a sushi/wine bar with the kind of thoughtful design, menu, and service you might expect to find in SoHo (and you’d never get a table). Instead, its on the quiet street leading to Uvita Waterfall where you can see families walking their kids to school. Eliam and his brother Tuco became fast friends and promised to catch us some fish next time we visit.
Carly — Little India (Jaco): While Jaco was a destination we’d personally skip next time, its almost worth the trip just for India Love. This is hands down the best Indian Food either of us had ever had.
Favorite Activity:
Carly — Diving at Cano Island
An hour by (fast) boat Cano Island sits off the west coast of Uvita. We did a 2 tank dive with Costa Rica Dive & Surf. The water was beautifully warm with good visibility. Giant sea turtles, sharks, eels, and more were all on beautiful display for us. Our guides were personable and confidence inspiring. We visited mid-August, which happens to be the best time for whale-watching and got to see adult Humpbacks showing off their tails as well as mothers and calves getting ready for the migration back south.
Matt — Riding Highway 2 over Cordillera de Talamanca
Our last day of riding was from Uvita to San Jose. Starting at sea level, the winding roads are a relentless show of verdant vistas and Tico towns. You’ll rise over 11,000 ft into the clouds (where it gets very cold) on this epic ride.
Our top tips
Tip 1: Pack Light
One of the beautiful things about going by motorcycle is that it forces you to take only as much as you can carry on the back of two wheels. Once you get going, you’ll likely realize you still don’t need but half of it.
As far as things we really recommend go:
- A three dry-bag system
We don’t own a set like pictured below. But the general idea is to have a large bag (basically your suitcase for clothes etc), a mid-size day bag (take it with you when you leave everything else in the room), and a very small bag that is usually empty — but gets hooked onto the bike for quick access to things like phone and wallet. Not having to worry about your gear if it starts raining while you’re an hour from your destination will take a lot of the stress and discomfort out of your trip.
2. Appropriate footwear
Now hear me out here….I’m going to really recommend a pair of Keens to you.
Look, man, I know that they look like chaco’s and crocs had a strange baby. But they are just about the only shoe I have found that ticks the requirements for a motorcycle trip in a rainy and tropical climate. Keens also seems to be trying to make them look a little better these days.
And as an added benefit, they do turn some heads…
In all seriousness though, they are solid shoes I wouldn’t mind sliding out in. They dry well, and because they are close-toed we didn’t have to bring any other shoes for zip-lining or anything else that would require it.
I did once do a motorcycle trip in a pair of chacos, but I was younger and (slightly) dumber then.
Other than those two items just use common sense for rain jackets, a little bit of basic medicine, etc…
Tip 2: Learn, just a little, Spanish
Carly is a (very hot) master of language. Fortunately her Portuguese, winning personality, and ability to learn quickly got us by everywhere we went.
While everybody does speak enough english (or hand gestures) to get through basic transactions. Its a fun experience and when people see you’re trying, I found, that they are more likely to have a genuine connection with you.
That being said my Spanish is basically just greetings, ordering food and coffee, and making up songs about mi esposa gordita..
But even just that won me some friends.
I really enjoyed the Lonely Planet Spanish Phrasebook. The opening section (tools) gives a common sense explanation of the basics of how Spanish functions. I found just using these rules of thumb + their basic phrases, I was at least able to have a few passing interactions entirely in Spanish, as well as elicit a few giggles from Ticas when I failed in my attempts to branch out a bit.
Tip 3: August was an amazing time to go
I am a little hesitant to give this advice, as it seems like we possibly got incredibly lucky. But we had no problems at all with being here during the “rainy” season. Rains tend to fall in the evening starting at 2pm or later and ranged from light, to torrential. The torrential rain is short lived though, falling for only an hour or so.
There were certainly plenty of tourist, and I feel that the “high” tourist season may have given us a much different experience (the dreaded disneyland vacation). That being said, from what I gathered rain is extremely unpredictable, and when you look at the weather it will tell you that it is going to rain everyday.
So, if you plan to get any long rides done before 2pm everyday I really think you’ll be fine even if it turns out we were just incredibly lucky. Frankly, you’ll be at least damp pretty much the whole time so just throw your cellphone in the dry-bag, slow down a bit, and embrace the weather.
No matter what, give Costa Rica a try sometime
Maybe Costa Rica isn’t for you right now because its a (relatively) expensive place to travel. Or maybe the motorcycle just doesn’t fit your budget, or you haven’t got your license yet.
No matter what, when, or how you go — we both really recommend a trip to Costa Rica.
Pura Vida
